a petite fashion glossary > sewing & textile terms
FINISHING terms
bias cut - Cut diagonally across the
grain of a fabric; drapes beautifully ---used to create slinky, body-conscious
garments
blanket stitch - finishing stitch that
forms a series of closely-spaced loops along edge
boning - flat, stick-like pieces sewn
into a garment to stiffen & provide shape. Can be irksome but
you'll look like wow.
dart - a pointed tuck sewn to tailor
garment closely to the body --- the more darts the better, imho.
facing - fabric sewn to the collar, front
opening, cuffs, or arms eye of a garment to create a finished look.
can show off the inside on the outside.
fagotting - a peek-a-boo "ladder"
embroidery, used in lingerie mostly.
french Seam - raw edges are totally covered
by sewing them together to produce a finished seam
godet - triangular shape inserted into garment
construction to give it fullness
gussets - triangular or diamond-shaped pieces
at the underarm -- allowing freedom of arm movement in close fitting
garments; popular during the 1950's.
piping - cord-like strip of fabric edging
a garment
ruched - gathered material is sewn to create
loose pleats
scalloped - edge of continuous curves, finished
with bourdon stitching
smocking - fabric gathered by embroidery
stitching; used commonly in sundresses & swimsuits, 1940s-1970s
top stitching - decorative row of stitching,
often sewn in contrast thread
pin-tucks - folds sewn and pressed down on fabric;
popular in the early 20th c.
COLLAR & NECKLINE STYLES
ballerina neckline - a low neckline associated
with strapless or spaghetti-strapped garments
bateau neck/boat-neck - high, wide neckline
that cuts straight across the front and back, meeting at shoulders
cowl neck - exaggerated tube at neck, can
be used as a hood or draped as a swag
crew neck - round neck with ribbed banding
dropped shoulders - the shoulder/sleeve falls
off the shoulder
jewel neck - high round neckline resting
simply at the base of the neck; common to 1950's sweaters
keyhole neck - tear-shaped or round cutout
fastening at front or back
mandarin collar - short, stand-up collar
notched collar - two-piece collar that must
be worn open.
scoop neck - A low, U-shaped neckline at
front or back
shawl collar - one-piece collar, turned down
to form a continuous line around shoulder
spaghetti ties - thin fabric strings that
bow at the shoulders
turtle neck - high, close-fitting, turnover
collar
split neck - neckline has been opened at
center to form a small "V"
sweetheart neckline shaped like the top half
of a heart; common to strapless dresses & sundresses
V-neck - An open yoke coming to a "V"
shape midway down the bodice.
POCKETS
besom pockets - a pocket sewn inside the
garment -- accessed via welted slit-type opening.
hip pockets - sewn on the front of the garment
at hip height
kangaroo pocket - formed by sewing a piece
of cloth over the garment with access on either end; used in sports
clothes & outdoor jackets
patch pockets - pockets attached to the outside
of the garment
SLEEVES
balloon sleeve - shaped full over the upper
arm and narrowed from the elbow to wrist
batwing sleeve - dolman sleeve which is cut
wide at the armhole
bishop's sleeve - full below the elbow and
gathered or left loose to drip at wrist
bracelet-length - commonly used in the 1950's
butterfly sleeve - wide flared long sleeve,
which sometimes connects at the back
cap sleeve - extra-short sleeve which sits
on the shoulder, forming a stiff cap
capelet sleeve - falls several inches below
elbow in soft flare
dolman sleeve - cut as an extension of the
bodice; common to the late 1940's illusion sleeve - a sleeve made of
sheer material, giving the illusion of no sleeve
juliet sleeve - featuring a puff shoulder
& often narrows to a fitted point.
kimono - rectangle sleeve, which may be
cut in piece with whole garment
leg-of-mutton/gigot sleeve - loose, full
sleeve nipped into a narrow tube at the elbow
puff sleeve/pouf sleeve - A full sleeve,
generous gathered at armhole
raglan sleeve - extends in one piece to the
neckline with seams from the armhole to the neck
tulip/petal sleeve - shorter sleeve, crisscrossing
over shoulders & biceps; common in the 1970's
TOPs
bandeau/tube top/boob tube - tube-shaped
covering
camisole/tank top/cami - short, sleeveless
top
corset - lingerie-like, form-fitting bodice with boning/
laces/snaps
cropped top - hem is cut just above the waist;
style had a resurgence in the 80's due in part to Madonna
double-breasted - one-half of the front overlaps
the other; usually has a double row of buttons
empire bodice - waist is just below bust;
popular in the Regency period
halter - sleeveless bodice with a wrap neck
illusion bodice - sheer material is used
to promote the illusion of no bodice; popular during the 1950s-1960s
& famously worn by Grace Kelly & Elizabeth Taylor.
peasant top - characterized with a low, gathered
neckline & ruffles
peplum - skirt added to hem of bodice; common
to the 1940's & 1980's
surplice/wrap top - diagonal cross-wrapped
construction
trapeze top - sleeveless style with flared
silhouette towards hem
WAISTLINES
basque waist/V-waist - dropped waist starts
several inches below the natural waist and often dips at center, making
a "V" shape
cinch belt - wide elastic belt worn with
skirts; popular in the 50's
dropped waist - waistline sewn below the
natural waist.
double-girdled waist – (Classical style)
double-tied cord
empire waist - begins below bust
shirred waist - fabric is gathered to make
a horizontal panel at waist
SKIRT STYLES
a-Line - shaped like a capital "A"
ballet-length - ending mid-calf
broomstick - characterized by numerous crumpled
pleats; think "Fortuny"
bubble/pouf skirt - short-skirted bubble-shaped
skirt
circle - full,round skirt; a true circle
can lay flat in a ring
column/straight skirt - straight line with
no flare at the hem
dirndl skirt - full skirt, pleated or gathered
at waist
gored skirt - made from tapered strips of
fabric that widen towards the the hem
hobble skirt - narrow and tight-fitting;
popular in the 1910's
kilt - tartan cloth skirt, pleated &
fastened by buckles or a large pin
maxi - ankle-length
mermaid - tight-fitting through the knees
& then flared
micro
- super-short length
mini - above-the-knee length
midi - knee-length
overskirt - skirt worn over another skirt
pencil skirt - narrow, tailored skirt
prairie skirt - slightly flared to very full,
with one or more flounces; traditionally often worn over a ruffled eyelet
or lace petticoat
sarong - long cloth, wrapped around the body
and tucked
tea-length - ending at the shins
tulle/bouffant SKIRT - sheer, puffed-out
skirt often made of stiffened silk or nylon net; common in 1950's prom
dresses
tiered - made of several horizontal layers,
each wider than the one above.
yoke skirt - wide waist-band stretching to
hips, joined to flaring skirt; common in the 1980's
the DRESS
chemise - straight unbelted dress
jumper/pinafore - sleeveless dress worn
layered over a top
caftan - ankle-length garment with long,
wide sleeves
granny Gown - ankle-length, sometimes ruffled,
day dress of printed calico, cut like a Edwardian nightgown; think 1970's
Laura Ashley
polonaise/milkmaid dress - gown with a fitted
top and cut-front, draped and poufed overskirt, worn over underskirt.
sack dress - loosely shaped dress that tapers
in at knees
sheath - a straight, fitted dress with waistline
shirtwaist - a tailored dress with a collar,
defined waistline, full skirt and usually a belt. Common 1940's-1960's
shift - straight unstructured dress, usually
darted at bust
tea gown - a frothy, feminine semi-formal
dress
tent - a dress flared from above the bust
trapeze - tent-shaped dress cut -wide and
extra-full
wiggle - fitted dress characterized by a
hem measurement narrower than at the hips
wrap dress - style that overlaps at waist
TROUSER TERMS
bloomers - full, loose pant gathered
at thigh, ankle or knee
capris/clamdiggers - straight-cut,
mid-calf-length
pants
flat-front - straight pants, often
seamless and pocketless
gaucho/culottes - wide-legged,
mid-calf-length pants
harem pants - full, ankle-length
divided skirt or pants, cinched at ankles
leggings - tight, form-fitting trousers
that extend from the waist to ankles
palazzo pants - wide-legged pants,
traditionally of a fluid fabric; first came on the scene in the 1930's